. 6966 Answers SOURCE: Hi nd welcome to FixYa, On a Honda CB550K, wiring would be:. blue - from ignition coil to contact breaker;. yellow - from ignition coil to contact breaker;. black/ white - to the ignition coils from the emergency switch ( engine off);.
red - from the center fuse of the fuse bank to the ignition switch;. black - ignition +12 from ignition switch;. black/ red - I don't recall a black/red wire on the harness. Good luck and thank you for asking FixYa. Posted on Aug 03, 2009. There is no need to rewire the internal of the heater! Just bring in the electrical supply to the heater, it can be either 120 or 240 volts.
If the heater you have is like the picture associated with your post, then all then have to do is change the supplied plug from 240 to 120. It comes pre set for 240. That plug is inside the cabinet. If any other brand, then you need to change the wires at the transformer of the heater.
All heaters need to be supplied with primary voltage: 120 or 240. Then the control system is supplied with secondary voltage out of the transformer. The secondary voltage is no more than 28 volts.
And these wires are normally colored as blue or yellow. Secondary power is already wired within the heater. NO need to change where they are. You will only need to deal with the Primary wiring. There are many varieties of transformers that transform high primary voltage to a low secondary voltage of 28 volts. And these transformers have many wires: primary & secondary. I will try to make this easy to understand.
If you have a Gas Heater Transformer with these colors:. Red. Black. White. Green Or.
Red. White with Red Stripe. Black. White with Black Stripe. Green These are Dual Voltage Transformers, you can bring in either 120 Volts or 240 Volts If you bring in only 120 Volts. 1st example: The Red wire will not be used! Hot wire to the Black, and the Neutral/Common, to the white wire.
Green to ground. 2nd example: Connect the Red wire with the White with Red Stripe together and connect these to the incoming Neutral/Common wire, normally White. Connect the Black Wire with the White with Black Stripe to your incoming Hot Wire, which is normally Black. Green to ground If you bring in 240 Volts.
1 Hot wire to the Red, the Other Hot wire to the Black, and White wire is not used. Green to ground 2nd Example: Wire nut the two Striped wires together. Then one incoming Hot wire to the Black, the other incoming Hot wire to Red.
Green to ground Or This is only a Low voltage - 120 Volts Only. Black. White. Green Or either any of these combinations. 2 Blacks w/Green. 2 Reds w/Green. Sql server 2008 enterprise edition. 1 Black, 1 Red w/green This type will only be a high voltage, 240 volts only Picture below is what a transformer looks like and it is where your incoming supply wires go.
The smaller leads with the spade connections will go to a specific location & is the 'Secondary'. Good Luck Mar 14, 2015. VERY IMPORTANT: Understand that in US residential wiring the WHITE wire is NOT ALWAYS the neutral wire. Additionally, prior to 1999 the National Electric Code (NEC) did not require that these white wires be re-identified with black tape or similar means when used for purposes other than neutral. The white wire is sometimes used as a hot, especially when wiring Intermatic T103 and T104 timers. Also understand that the WHITE neutral wire and the bare (or green) equipment grounding wire are connected together ONLY at the main electric power panel and must neverbe connected together again.
Once those two wires leave the main electric panel, the WHITE neutral wire must always remain insulated from the bare or green equipment grounding wire. Isc computer repair. This is very important for safety considerations. If your wiring is very old and does not have a bare equipment grounding conductor, you must protect the circuit with a GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interupter). GFCI wiring is not difficult but is beyond the scope of this post. DETERMINE WHAT CABLE YOU HAVE: Usually one will find one of the three following scenarios for the incoming supply cables when wiring a T103 or T104 Intermatic timer: 1.A 120 volt cable with 3 wires: black, white, and bare.
The black is LINE (hot), white is neutral and bare is equipment grounding. Black to white is 120 volts. This scenario can be used with the T103, but not the T104.
2.A 240 volt cable with 3 wires: black, white, and bare. The black is LINE(hot), the WHITE is LINE (HOT), and the bare is equipment grounding.
Black to white is 240 volts. This scenario is used with the T104 ONLY. 3.A 120/240 volt cable with 4 wires: Black, red, white, and bare. The black and red are (LINE) hot, white is neutral and bare is equipment grounding.
Black to red is 240 volts. Black to white is 120 volts. Red to white is 120 volts. This scenario can be used with either the T103 or the T104. The only difference between the T103 and the T104 is the timer motor voltage rating. The T103 uses a 120 volt timer motor and the T104 uses a 240 volt timer motor.
The T103 timer motor is connected to terminal 'A' and terminal #3 during manufacturing. The T104 timer motor is connected to terminal #1 and terminal 3# at the factory. Also, when connecting the bare or green wires to the 'GR' terminal, it is best to wirenut the wires together with a pigtail, then connect the pigtail to the 'GR' (GRound) terminal, WHICH IS THE GREEN SCREW ON THE LOWER PART OF THE CASE. WIRING THE TIMER: The wiring diagram for the T103 is here: WIRING THE T103 USING AN INCOMING 120/240 VOLT CABLE WITH 4 WIRES (scenario #3): Incoming (LINE) wires from 240 volt circuit breaker: Connect the black (LINE)(hot) wire to terminal #1.
Connect the red (LINE) (hot) wire to terminal #3. Connect the white (neutral in this case) wire to terminal 'A'.
Connect the bare equipment grounding wire to the 'GR' terminal, which is the green screw on the case. Outgoing wires to 240 volt load: Connect one (hot) wire to terminal #2 and the other (hot) wire to terminal #4. The bare or green wire goes to the 'GR' terminal. WIRING THE T103 USING AN INCOMING 120 VOLT CABLE WITH 3 WIRES (scenario #1): Incoming wires from 120 volt breaker or source: Black (LINE) to terminal #3. White (neutral) to terminal 'A'. Bare to the 'GR' terminal.
Terminals #1 and #2 are NOT used in this case. Outgoing wires to 120 volt load(s): Black(hot) to terminal #4. White(neutral) to terminal 'A'.
Bare to the 'GR' terminal. The wiring diagram for the T104 is here: WIRING THE T104 USING AN INCOMING 240 VOLT CABLE WITH 3 WIRES (scenario #2): Incoming (LINE) wires from breaker: Connect the black (LINE) (hot) wire to terminal #1. Connect the white (LINE) (hot in this case) to terminal #3. Connect the bare wire to the 'GR' terminal. The 'A' terminal is NOT used. Outgoing wires to load: Connect one (hot) wire to terminal #2 and the other (hot) wire to terminal #4. Connect the bare or green wire to terminal 'GR'.
The 'A' terminal is NOT used. WIRING THE T104 USING AN INCOMING 240 VOLT CABLE WITH 4 WIRES: Same as above, except the white wire is not used. Just tape or wirenut it off. Comment by gotgeek2, posted on Jan 08, 2010ckuzkuz, I'm a licensed master electrician in 2 states with 30 years in the trade. I've installed a lot of Intermatic timers over the years.
I wrote this tip because I saw that a lot of folks were having problems wiring them. On Mar 07, 2010. These instructions are for USA residential wiring only. VERY IMPORTANT: Understand that in US residential wiring the WHITE wire is NOT ALWAYS the neutral wire. Additionally, prior to 1999 the National Electric Code (NEC) did not require that these white wires be re-identified with black tape or similar means when used for purposes other than neutral. The white wire is sometimes used as a hot, especially when wiring Intermatic T103 and T104 timers.
Also understand that the WHITE neutral wire and the bare (or green) equipment grounding wire are connected together ONLY at the main electric power panel and must neverbe connected together again. Once those two wires leave the main electric panel, the WHITE neutral wire must always remain insulated from the bare or green equipment grounding wire.
This is very important for safety considerations. If your wiring is very old and does not have a bare equipment grounding conductor, you must protect the circuit with a GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interupter). GFCI wiring is not difficult but is beyond the scope of this post. DETERMINE WHAT CABLE YOU HAVE: Usually one will find one of the three following scenarios for the incoming supply cables when wiring a T103 or T104 Intermatic timer: 1.A 120 volt cable with 3 wires: black, white, and bare.
The black is LINE (hot), white is neutral and bare is equipment grounding. Black to white is 120 volts. This scenario can be used with the T103, but not the T104. 2.A 240 volt cable with 3 wires: black, white, and bare. The black is LINE(hot), the WHITE is LINE (HOT), and the bare is equipment grounding. Black to white is 240 volts.
This scenario is used with the T104 ONLY. 3.A 120/240 volt cable with 4 wires: Black, red, white, and bare. The black and red are (LINE) hot, white is neutral and bare is equipment grounding. Black to red is 240 volts.
Black to white is 120 volts. Red to white is 120 volts. This scenario can be used with either the T103 or the T104. The only difference between the T103 and the T104 is the timer motor voltage rating. The T103 uses a 120 volt timer motor and the T104 uses a 240 volt timer motor.
The T103 timer motor is connected to terminal 'A' and terminal #3 during manufacturing. The T104 timer motor is connected to terminal #1 and terminal 3# at the factory. Also, when connecting the bare or green wires to the 'GR' terminal, it is best to wirenut the wires together with a pigtail, then connect the pigtail to the 'GR' (GRound) terminal, WHICH IS THE GREEN SCREW ON THE LOWER PART OF THE CASE. WIRING THE TIMER: The wiring diagram for the T103 is here: WIRING THE T103 USING AN INCOMING 120/240 VOLT CABLE WITH 4 WIRES (scenario #3): Incoming (LINE) wires from 240 volt circuit breaker: Connect the black (LINE)(hot) wire to terminal #1. Connect the red (LINE) (hot) wire to terminal #3. Connect the white (neutral in this case) wire to terminal 'A'.
Connect the bare equipment grounding wire to the 'GR' terminal, which is the green screw on the case. Outgoing wires to 240 volt load: Connect one (hot) wire to terminal #2 and the other (hot) wire to terminal #4. The bare or green wire goes to the 'GR' terminal.
WIRING THE T103 USING AN INCOMING 120 VOLT CABLE WITH 3 WIRES (scenario #1): Incoming wires from 120 volt breaker or source: Black (LINE) to terminal #3. White (neutral) to terminal 'A'. Bare to the 'GR' terminal. Terminals #1 and #2 are NOT used in this case. Outgoing wires to 120 volt load(s): Black(hot) to terminal #4. White(neutral) to terminal 'A'. Bare to the 'GR' terminal.
The wiring diagram for the T104 is here: WIRING THE T104 USING AN INCOMING 240 VOLT CABLE WITH 3 WIRES (scenario #2): Incoming (LINE) wires from breaker: Connect the black (LINE) (hot) wire to terminal #1. Connect the white (LINE) (hot in this case) to terminal #3. Connect the bare wire to the 'GR' terminal. The 'A' terminal is NOT used. Outgoing wires to load: Connect one (hot) wire to terminal #2 and the other (hot) wire to terminal #4. Connect the bare or green wire to terminal 'GR'. The 'A' terminal is NOT used.
WIRING THE T104 USING AN INCOMING 240 VOLT CABLE WITH 4 WIRES: Same as above, except the white wire is not used. Just tape or wirenut it off. On Dec 28, 2009. Hi, the 2 - brown wires are for there own run capacitor they should have sold you. One of the browns will have a white stripe. The new cap has only 2- terminals and you put a brown on each side.
The black and yellow wires are both hot which 1- will go to 120 volts on the load or out side of the contactor, and the same with yellow, 120 volts. This gives you 220 volts to run the motor. Look on the new motor and you will have a diagram or on a paper that comes in the box. The old motor used the dual cap to run the compressor to.
Magnetek Power Converter 6612 Manual
The green is just a ground wire. Screw it to any metal part or screw. You should be able to put the black and yellow hot wires where the old black, red, or blue were as long as they are 120 volts which I am sure they are. Get a cheap tester when you go get the cap for the new motor, and check the old blk, red, and blue terminals to ground and you should have 120 volts on at least 2 of them.
Put the new yellow to 1 and black to another, browns to the new cap and your off and running. Keep me posted. I do this everyday. Please be kind when rating me, thank you. Shastalaker7 A/C, Heating Contractor Jul 09, 2010.
The following applies to the Pass and Seymour Legrand 1595-2SWT combination two switches with GFCI receptacle device ONLY. Sorry for the long post, but the manufacturer's wiring diagram for that device is very difficult to follow and I want to make sure that you understand what's what. A basic description of how the device works may help. At the top of the switch is where one connects the incoming ( HOT circuit from the circuit breaker or source) (LINE) wires. The black is connected to the HOT terminal and the white is connected to the WHITE terminal. That powers up the GFCI receptacle. On the bottom of the switch there are two (LOAD) terminals (HOT and WHITE).
This is where one connects anyand all loads which are to be GFCI protected, including any downstream receptacle outlets that one may want to GFCI protect. The thing to understand about GFCI's is that BOTH the hot and the 'neutral' white wires for the load(s) must be connected to the LOAD connection on the GFCI in order for it to function correctly. Think two wires IN from the (LINE), two wires out to the (LOAD). Also, at the bottom of the switch should be 3 wires which are permanently attached to the device, black, red, and yellow. These wires are not connected internally to anything related to the GFCI. The black wire is common and the red and yellow wires are the switch legs (pick one). In other words, individually, these wires function just like a regular switch.
If one supplies 120 volts to the black (common) wire, when one switch is turned ON one or the other red or yellow wires (pick one, let's say the red wire) will be energized. When the other switch is turned ON the yellow wire will be energized. Understand that if the black (common) wire is not supplied with 120 volts you will never power the red and/or yellow switch leg wires. For equipment grounding, of course, the bare (or green) equipment grounding wires are all twisted together with 2 pigtails using a red or gray wire nut; one pigtail goes to the green screw on the switch and the other pigtail goes to the green screw on a metal box (if you have a metal box).
There are other ways to do this, but that's the general idea. OK, after all that, we're ready to wire the 1595-2SWT. Understand that there are many scenarios for wiring that device. I will describe the most common one.
The following assumes that you have only ONE circuit supplying 120 volts to the box. It also assumes that you have separate cables going to each switched load and that these loads are NOT connected to any power source other than the one supplied by the switch itself. It's OK to have a 3-wire cable with ground (black, red, white, and bare) going to the loads. Additionally at this time we will also assume that there are no downstream receptacle(s).
After making all the equipment grounding connections; LINE connections: Connect the white wire from the incoming (LINE)120 volt cable from the breaker or source to the the white (LINE) terminal at the top of the switch. Connect the black wire from the incoming (LINE) (HOT) 120 volt cable to the HOT terminal at the top of the switch. You should now see that the wiring for GFCI receptacle outlet itself is accomplished.
LOAD connections: The two white neutral wires in the box that are in the two outgoing cables that go to the loads are twisted together with a pigtail that is connected to the (LOAD) WHITE terminal at the bottom of the device. OPTIONALLY, if you have a 3-wire cable with ground (black, red, white, and bare), just connect the white wire to the (LOAD) White terminal at the bottom of the switch. Here's where it gets tricky. Connect the black (common) wire that is permanently attached to the device to the (LOAD) HOT terminal at the bottom of the switch. Do you see now that any loads connected to either the red or yellow wires will be switched and GFCI protected? If not, please STOP what you are doing and post back here, or called a qualified electrician.
You may then connect the red wire to one of the switch legs and the yellow wire to the other switch leg. Do you now also see that you can easily add a downstream receptacle to the deal by simply bringing a cable into the box from that downstream receptacle and connect it to the load side of the GFCI? I hope this helps. BE SAFE and don't forget to turn OFF the circuit and test it to make sure it is OFF. Feb 27, 2010. Please read all of this post.
You may burn up the 120 volt T103 timer motor is you are not careful. The statement: 'I have 120v board with 120 constant and 240 timed' is not very clear to me as to what you mean. In US residential wiring, the white wire is not always the 'neutral;' The white wire is sometimes used for 240 volt circuits. We cannot tell you how to wire your timer unless we know exactly what you have. If your incoming supply cable (from the breaker box) has 3 wires (black, white, and bare), there are two scenarios: 1.If the voltage from black (hot) to white (ALSO hot in this case) is 240 volts, and you have only 3 wires (black, white, and bare), then the T103 is the wrong timer if you are trying to control a 240 volt load. You should use a T104 timer.
The T104 uses a 240 volt timer motor and the T103 uses a 120 volt timer motor. 2.If the voltage between black and white is 120 volts, then you will only be able to control 120 volt loads; then the incoming black supply wire is connected to terminal 3 and the white (neutral) wire is connected to the 'A' terminal. The bare equipment grounding wire is then connected to the 'GR' terminal. To show the difference, if you are trying to control a 240 volt load, to use a T103 and wire it correctly, you would need to have a incoming supply cable with a total of 4 wires (black, red, white (neutral), and bare) Black to red would be 240 volts. Black to white would be 120 volts. Red to white would be 120 volts. The connections would be as follows: White (neutral in this case) to the 'A' terminal Black to terminal 1 Red to terminal 3 The 240 volt load would then connect to terminals 2 and 4 Both the bare equipment grounding wires are connected to the 'GR' terminal.
Since you did not mention a red wire, I can only ASSUME that this is not the case. Sorry, we can't tell you how to wire this timer based upon assumptions. So, what do you have? Dec 23, 2009.
Spanish IMPULSE AC CRANE CONTROLS Dynamic Braking IMPULSE ®.G+ & VG+ SERIES 4. Consult Factory - Click Link to Request.
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#140-10305 IMPULSE ®.VG+ SERIES 2 If you need a Series 2 manual, first determine which software version is in your IMPULSE ®.G+ Series 2 or IMPULSE ®.VG+ Series 2 drive, and complete the following steps:. Power up the drive. The drive will display parameter U1-02, 'Output Frequency' on line one. Press the up arrow key until the keypad displays 'U1' on line one and 'Monitor' on line two. Press the key labeled data/enter.
The drive displays parameter U1-01, 'Frequency' on line one. Press the up arrow key until parameter U1-14, 'Flash ID' is displayed on line one. Read and record the value displayed on line two of the display. This is the software version in the drive. IMPULSE ®.VG+ IMPULSE ®.G+ SERIES 3. Consult Factory - Click Link to Request. Consult Factory - Click Link to Request.
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Consult Factory - Click Link to Request. #140-10305 IMPULSE ®.G+ SERIES 2 If you need a Series 2 manual, first determine which software version is in your IMPULSE ®.G+ Series 2 or IMPULSE ®.VG+ Series 2 drive, and complete the following steps:. Power up the drive. The drive will display parameter U1-02, 'Output Frequency' on line one. Press the up arrow key until the keypad displays 'U1' on line one and 'Monitor' on line two. Press the key labeled data/enter. The drive displays parameter U1-01, 'Frequency' on line one.
Press the up arrow key until parameter U1-14, 'Flash ID' is displayed on line one. Read and record the value displayed on line two of the display. This is the software version in the drive.
IMPULSE ®.G+ IMPULSE ®.G+ MINI IMPULSE ®.T AC LINE REGENERATION IMPULSE ®.P3 I I IMPULSE ®.S+ IMPULSE ®.SI IMPULSE ®.SJR IMPULSE ®.LINK DATALOGGER OMNIPULSE DC CRANE CONTROLS MAGNEPULSE™ DMC SCS/SWAY CONTROL SYSTEM MAC.2000 RADIO REMOTE CONTROLS TELEMOTIVE RADIO CONTROLS RECEIVERS ENRANGE RADIO CONTROLS This manual is valid for systems with a 38 conductor cable #0-TC-FLEX12E Note: This manual is for the CSA ready systems with 28 conductor cables #0-TC-FLEX12-CSAE CUSTOM, ENGINEERED RADIO CONTROLS. Consult Factory - Click Link to Request. RADIO REMOTE CONTROLS FOR HAZARDOUS LOCATIONS BATTERY CHARGERS PULSESTAR RADIOS IMPORTANT - The new PulseStar RF modules have an expanded Frequency Range; along with this is a new channel numbering scheme.
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Raw Message Greetings, I am so desperately seeking advice. I have contacted the RV Manufacturer and they did not offer any help.
I recently purchased a 1997 Rockwood Tent Trailer. It has a Magnetek 6612 Series Converter with Option O. I have spent many hours trying to diagnose an electrical problem, but I am not really patient with this kind of stuff.
Do you happen to know if in fact, the 6612 Series Magnetek Converter with Option O has the ability to charge the battery (RV Battery) through the Converter whilst plugged into 110V shoreline. Sorry if you have read this somewhere else. I posted this in another newsgroup but thought it should have been here first. Thanks in advance. Greetings, I am so desperately seeking advice. I have contacted the RV Manufacturer and they did not offer any help.
I recently purchased a 1997 Rockwood Tent Trailer. It has a Magnetek 6612 Series Converter with Option O. I have spent many hours trying to diagnose an electrical problem, but I am not really patient with this kind of stuff. Do you happen to know if in fact, the 6612 Series Magnetek Converter with Option O has the ability to charge the battery (RV Battery) through the Converter whilst plugged into 110V shoreline. Sorry if you have read this somewhere else. I posted this in another newsgroup but thought it should have been here first. Thanks in advance.
Greetings, I am so desperately seeking advice. I have contacted the RV Manufacturer and they did not offer any help.
I recently purchased a 1997 Rockwood Tent Trailer. It has a Magnetek 6612 Series Converter with Option O. I have spent many hours trying to diagnose an electrical problem, but I am not really patient with this kind of stuff. Do you happen to know if in fact, the 6612 Series Magnetek Converter with Option O has the ability to charge the battery (RV Battery) through the Converter whilst plugged into 110V shoreline. Sorry if you have read this somewhere else. I posted this in another newsgroup but thought it should have been here first.
Thanks in advance My 6612 definitely doesn't have a charging section, it is rated for 12VDC 12 amp output. I see nothing about an option O in my owner's manual. I would think if it had a charger on it, the sticker would state it. Particularly what the charging amps are and the output voltage should be as high as 14.5 VDC. What does the sticker state, I can compare it to mine. Good 3 stage converter/chargers are available for about $100 is it worth to keep playing with this one? Raw Message Ok, So I thought I would update everyone and also to thank everybody for their helpful responses.
I ended up talking with the Lead Engineer from the company who bought out Magnetek. He was helpful and gave me lots of advice. I ended up buying new terminal ends and attaching them. But, from what I was told from Jeff, the engineer, was, perform a method of elimination. I had done them all except for using the truck battery hooked up using booster cables to the tent trailer - still no juice. Thats when I thought I would replace the terminal ends. I pulled off the positive side first and taking out the inline fuse found out I had power - whaaaahoo.
I then put the inline fuse holder back in and nothing - ok. So at that point I knew it was something in that damn $2 little part. Even though the fuse looked good, it wasn't - a new 20amp fuse and were off to the races. So when it all comes down to bitter defeat, think back to the basics and start from the beginning. I couldn't believe I wasted almost 20hrs trying to diagnose a little fuse that look good, but wasn't.
Oh well, that's how we learn right? Thanks again.